Etosha National Park, Namibia: Safari on the Salt Pan
In southern Africa there is Etosha, one of the world’s great national parks. It is the Land of Dry Water, sanctuary to elephants, lions, giraffes, and many other animals. At its heart is the Etosha Pan, a vast, flat salt desert where life seems banished forever, yet Etosha has its secrets and surprises.
We’ve packed our gear, we’ve got our gun (for safety), and we’re ready to go. It’s time for safari, it’s time for Etosha.
On the road in Etosha…we’ve left the base camp at Okaukeujo and headed for the edge of the salt pan. Surrounding the pan are woodlands, savannahs, and waterholes that support the fragile life of this land.
In Etosha, elephants have the right of way…we can wait. The park has some of the largest and tallest elephants in Africa.
Even the mighty rhino must yield to the elephant. Etosha is one of the last refuges of the black rhino, a magnificent creature hunted nearly to extinction for its horn.
When they’re not blocking traffic or chasing rhinos, elephants act in more playful and peaceful ways.
Taking the family for a stroll on the Etosha Pan…Thousands of years ago, the pan was a great lake, but the Kunene river changed course and the lake dried up. Now, it is a sea of salt and dust, desolate and unforgiving, yet beautiful.
We’ve arrived at a crossroads. The open sky, the flat land that goes on forever, this is Etosha. The sign reads “Stay in your car.” Good advice. Lock the doors, too.
The majestic lioness seeks her prey in the flatlands. Keep the doors locked.
Perhaps her manly lion, strolling across the grass and waiting for her to bring him his lunch. The female lions do the hunting, while the males help with the eating. Did I mention to lock the doors?
A friendly herd of zebra…over 100 species of mammals and 300 species of birds live within Etosha, once the largest game reserve in the world. Though only 1/4 its original size, it’s still among the largest and greatest.
A lone zebra quenches its thirst…Waterholes are the foundation of life in Etosha. Most are formed by natural springs, a few are manmade and flood-lit for tourists. In the depths of the dry season, the animals have only one goal: survival.
The striking black stripes of the zebra contrast with the golden grass of the plain.
Springbok gathering for a group lunch…The “jump deer” is among the most common mammals in the park, and herds of hundreds can be seen. Small and graceful, they rely on their speed and agility to escape their foes.
Young impalas getting close…Impalas are the bigger cousins of the springbok. One variety, the black-faced impala, is nearly extinct, and Etosha has nearly half of those remaining.
It’s good to be the tallest animal in the park. Giraffes might look gentle, but a mature giraffe can fend off a lion.
A herd of giraffes basks in a rain of golden light. The world of the giraffe, elephant, and lion is dwindling, but in Etosha they remain safe, wild, and free.
Alas, all safaris must come to an end. The sun is setting, the giraffes end their day as we end ours, and we vow that we will return to the glory and the beauty that is Etosha, land of dry water and mighty lions.
Photo Credits: Wjp Bennett, Steve Wilson, Nokes, AJ82, Rui Ornelas, Jon Rawlinson, Coda, Alastair Rae, Paul Watson, Christopher Jowell. Thank you.